Lost in the Flames: Hawaii's Oldest Inn and its Restaurant Ravaged by Maui Fire



In the early part of the previous century, whalers who docked their ships in Lahaina, in western Maui, would drink at the saloon in the Pioneer Inn. For many years, locals would gather and chat over breakfast at the Inn's Grill and Bar. More recently, diners could enjoy poke and cocktails at Papa'aina, the restaurant that replaced the long-standing grill.

The Pioneer Inn, the oldest continuously operating hotel in Hawaii and a local landmark, was one of the numerous businesses and homes destroyed in the fires that engulfed Lahaina on Tuesday. The fires resulted in the deaths of at least 93 people, a number that is expected to increase.

Chef Lee Anne Wong, who worked at Papa'aina, closed the restaurant before the fires spread rapidly. She is now volunteering with the World Central Kitchen team to provide meals on the devastated island of Maui. On Thursday, she assisted in packing 2,000 lunches and anticipated feeding another 2,000 for dinner. Wong's priority is finding one of her employees who she hasn't been able to locate. She believes that finding safety, shelter, food, and water is what matters most at this time.

The Pioneer Inn was established in 1901 by George Alan Freeland, a British man. It was located in Lahaina's historic district, which contains buildings that predate Hawaii's annexation by the United States. The inn was the first public accommodations on the island and maintained its historic charm and iconic plantation-style architecture throughout the years.

Fortunately, all guests and staff were evacuated safely before the fires reached the inn. Kelly Lennon, whose family has managed the hotel since 1981, confirmed that 30 out of 45 employees have been left homeless but are safe.

Many displaced workers have found temporary lodging with friends and family. One of the retail shop owners on the hotel's ground floor is hosting 23 people. Lee Anne Wong is accommodating one of her cooks and his wife.

Despite the devastation, Lennon and other business owners express a desire to rebuild. However, there are concerns about obtaining permits to build in an erosion zone and whether they would need to replicate the old structure, which was listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The rebuilding process seems challenging, but everyone involved is determined to move forward.

Numerous nearby restaurants and eateries were also destroyed by the fires. Jennifer Owen, the owner of Bakery Lahaina, shared that both her bakery and nearby home were gone. Mick Fleetwood, musician and owner of Fleetwood's on Front Street, confirmed the loss of his establishment and expressed concern for the safety of his staff.

This is a devastating moment for Maui, with many individuals experiencing unimaginable loss. While rebuilding is a priority, the safety and well-being of staff and team members remain the main focus.

As the recovery efforts continue in Maui, members of the restaurant community have come together to support their colleagues who have lost their homes. One organization leading these relief efforts is Chef Hui, which is comprised of local cooks and food professionals. They are coordinating various initiatives to provide assistance to members of the hospitality industry who have been affected by the fire.

Another restaurant group, TS Restaurants, which operates several establishments in Hawaii and California, has started seeking donations to offer grants to its nearly 800 employees in Maui. This initiative aims to provide financial support to those who have been displaced or suffered losses due to the fire.

Additionally, a GoFundMe page has been created for the employees of Waikiki Brewing Company and Cheeseburger in Paradise, both of which were completely destroyed by the fire. This crowdfunding campaign aims to provide financial relief to these employees who have lost their jobs and livelihoods.

However, it is important for people to be cautious of scam charities during times of crisis. Local chef and community leader, Wong, advises people to donate to trusted organizations such as Maui United Way. She is also helping to spread the word about Maui Rapid Response, a grassroots collective that is vetting charities and coordinating donations of essential items like food, clothing, and toiletries.

Despite the devastation caused by the fire, Wong emphasizes the strength and unity of the Hawaiian community. She highlights the community's ability to come together and support one another during difficult times. With whole communities rallying together, the recovery efforts in Maui are bolstered by the spirit of solidarity and care that permeates the Hawaiian culture.

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